Open a Technical Support ticket and fill out the form with your order info or proof of purchase. That gives our tech team what they need to diagnose the issue fast and move a warranty claim forward if it qualifies.

Step 1: Gather what you’ll need

• Original order number from DakotaLithium.com, or proof of purchase/receipt (dealer invoice, email receipt, screenshot of transaction)

• Battery model and voltage + amp-hour rating (example: 12V 100Ah)

• Charger info (brand, voltage + amps, and any LED/error behavior)

• If possible: multimeter readings and a few photos of your install and wiring

Step 2: Fill out the Technical Support form completely

Go here and select Technical support:
https://dakotalithium.com/sales-technical-support/how-to-contact/

Fill in every field you can, including:

• Name, email, phone number, order number

• Battery voltage and amp-hour rating

• What device(s) you’re using it with (include year, make, model)

• Whether you have a multimeter

• Voltage reading of each battery before and after attempting a charge (isolated readings if it’s a bank)

• Charger voltage reading with the charger not connected to the battery

• Whether you’re using a Dakota Lithium charger

• Charger voltage and amp rating, plus what the LED does before and after connecting

• A clear description of the issue (what happened, when it started, what you’ve already tried)

Step 3: Add photos if you can

These speed everything up:

• Battery terminals and cable connections (close-up)

• Full install photo (wide shot)

• Charger label and LED/status lights

• Any error codes on charger, monitor, or device

What happens next

A technician replies in the ticket thread, confirms troubleshooting, then explains next steps if we need to move into a warranty replacement or return process.

If you would like additional support directly from a customer support technician, please open a ticket at the link below:
https://dakotalithium.com/sales-technical-support/how-to-contact/

Start by confirming what you’re trying to power and what voltage it needs. Then build the battery setup to match that voltage, use the right cable and fuse, and tighten every connection. Most problems come from the wrong wiring method, mismatched batteries, or loose terminals.

Step 1: Identify your system voltage

• 12V system: most small boats, accessories, fish finders, lights, small inverters

• 24V system: many trolling motors

• 36V system: many higher-thrust trolling motors

• 48V system: golf carts, electric outboards, some large off-grid systems

Match the battery bank voltage to the device voltage. Don’t guess.

Step 2: Choose the right hookup method

Option A: Single battery (most common)

• Use one battery that matches your system voltage (example: one 12V battery for a 12V system).

• Connect battery positive (+) to your positive lead (through a fuse).

• Connect battery negative (-) to your negative lead.

Option B: Series wiring (to increase voltage)

Use series when you need higher voltage (24V, 36V, 48V).

• Connect positive to negative between batteries.

• Use the first battery’s positive and the last battery’s negative as your main outputs.

• Example: two 12V batteries in series = 24V.

Option C: Parallel wiring (to increase runtime)

Use parallel when you want more capacity but the same voltage.

• Connect positive to positive and negative to negative.

• Voltage stays the same, Ah adds up.

Step 3: Use the right cables and fuse

• Use cable sized for your max amps and cable length.

• Put a fuse on the positive lead, close to the battery (typically within 6–12 inches).

• For parallel banks, best practice is fusing each battery’s positive lead.

Step 4: Tighten connections and verify voltage

• Tight, clean terminals matter. Loose lugs cause heat and voltage drop.

• Use a multimeter to confirm the voltage at the main outputs:

  • 12V bank: roughly 13V+ when charged

  • 24V bank: roughly 26V+ when charged

  • 36V bank: roughly 39V+ when charged

  • 48V bank: roughly 52V+ when charged

Step 5: Charge correctly

• Use a charger that matches the bank voltage and supports LiFePO4.

• Don’t charge below 32°F (0°C) unless your battery has internal heating.

Common mistakes to avoid

• Mixing different battery models, capacities, or ages in the same bank

• Wiring series when you meant parallel (or vice versa)

• Using undersized wire that causes voltage drop

• Skipping a fuse or placing it too far from the battery

• Charging a series bank with the wrong voltage charger

If you tell us what you’re powering (trolling motor brand/thrust, inverter watts, golf cart, etc.), your target voltage (12/24/36/48V), and how far the battery is from the device, we can tell you the cleanest way to hook it up.

If you would like additional support directly from a customer support technician, please open a ticket at the link below:
https://dakotalithium.com/sales-technical-support/how-to-contact/

Pick wire gauge based on amps, total cable length, and acceptable voltage drop. If the wire is too small, you get heat, poor performance, and nuisance BMS trips. Oversizing wire almost never hurts, it just costs more.

Step-by-step

1) Find your max current (amps)

Use the device’s max draw.

• Trolling motor max amps

• Inverter amps (or calculate: Amps = Watts ÷ Volts)

• Winch, compressor, pumps, etc.

2) Measure total cable length (round-trip)

This is the most common mistake.

• Measure battery to device and back
  Example: 10 ft one-way = 20 ft total for wire sizing.

3) Choose your voltage drop target

• 3% for sensitive loads and performance-critical stuff (trolling motors, electronics, long runs)

• 5% is acceptable for many basic accessory circuits

Lower voltage systems (12V) need thicker wire than higher voltage systems (24V/36V/48V) for the same power.

4) Select the wire gauge that supports the amps at your length

Use a marine/automotive voltage drop chart (AWG) for DC circuits. Then pick the next size up if you are on the edge, especially in heat, tight rigs, or long runs.

Wire Gauge Chart: View Here

Simple, practical rules

• Long run + high amps = thick wire. Don’t cheap out here.

• 12V trolling motors and inverters eat wire. 8 AWG is often too small once the run gets longer.

• 24V and 36V systems can use smaller wire than 12V for the same job, but still size for the actual amps and run length.

• Use fine-strand marine-grade cable when possible. It handles vibration and corrosion better.

• Crimps matter. A perfect wire gauge won’t save a loose lug.

Quick starting points (common use cases)

These are general starting ranges. Exact gauge depends on amps and total length.

• Small electronics, lights, pumps (5–20A): 16–12 AWG

• Accessory circuits (20–40A): 12–10 AWG

• Medium loads (40–80A): 8–6 AWG

• High loads (80–150A): 4–2 AWG

• Very high loads (150–300A, big inverters): 2/0–4/0 AWG

What you need to pick the correct wire every time

Send these 4 details and we can dial it in:

1. System voltage (12/24/36/48V)

2. Device (trolling motor, inverter size, etc.)

3. Max amps or watts

4. One-way cable length (battery to device)

If you would like additional support directly from a customer support technician, please open a ticket at the link below:
https://dakotalithium.com/sales-technical-support/how-to-contact/

Size the fuse to protect the wire and the circuit, not to “match the battery.” The right fuse prevents a cable from overheating or catching fire if something shorts, while still allowing your system to run normally.

Step-by-step: choosing the right fuse

1) Find your system’s max current draw

Use the largest load you expect to run.

• Look up the device’s max amps (trolling motor, inverter, charger, DC panel, etc.)

• If you only know watts: Amps = Watts ÷ Volts
  Example: 1200W inverter on 12V = 1200 ÷ 12 = 100A (and real draw can be higher under surge)

2) Choose a fuse slightly above normal operating current

Typical target: 125% of expected continuous draw

• Example: device draws 80A continuous
  80A × 1.25 = 100A fuse

3) Match the fuse to your wire gauge and run length

Your fuse must be at or below what the wire can safely handle.

• If you install a 200A fuse on wire that should only carry 100A, the wire becomes the fuse, and that’s how fires happen.

4) Account for surge loads

Some devices pull big surges:

• Inverters, winches, some pumps, and electric motors
  In those cases:

• Size the fuse so normal surge does not nuisance-trip, but still stays within wire limits.

Fuse placement rules (non-negotiable)

• Install the fuse on the positive cable, as close to the battery as practical (usually within 6–12 inches).

• If you have multiple batteries in parallel, best practice is a fuse on each battery’s positive lead.

Common setups (quick guidance)

• Trolling motors: fuse to the motor’s max amp spec, and match wire gauge for the run length.

• Inverters: base on continuous watts and surge rating, then confirm wire size supports it.

• Accessory panels: sum the branch circuits, fuse the feed wire to protect the main run.

Quick example

You have a 12V inverter rated 1000W continuous.

• Amps = 1000 ÷ 12 = 83A

• Fuse target: 83 × 1.25 = 104A

• Practical choice: 100A or 125A, depending on surge and wire rating.

If you tell us your battery voltage (12/24/36/48V), device, max amps or watts, and cable length/wire gauge, we can recommend a clean fuse size.

If you would like additional support directly from a customer support technician, please open a ticket at the link below:
https://dakotalithium.com/sales-technical-support/how-to-contact/

Balancing means getting every battery in your bank to the same state of charge so they share the load and charge evenly. Do this anytime you build a new bank, replace one battery, or notice uneven runtime or a battery tripping the BMS early.

When you need to balance

• One battery reads lower than the others

• The bank shuts off early under load

• Charging finishes too fast or acts inconsistent

• You mixed batteries with different charge levels before wiring (common cause)

How to balance your batteries (recommended method)

1) Disconnect the bank

• Separate the batteries so they are no longer wired in series or parallel.

2) Fully charge each battery individually

• Use the correct lithium charger for that battery’s voltage.

• Charge each battery to 100%, one at a time.

• Let it sit 30–60 minutes after charging so the voltage settles.

3) Verify each battery matches

• Use a multimeter at the terminals.

• Your goal is that all batteries read very close to each other before reconnecting.

4) Rebuild the bank correctly

• Only combine matching batteries (same model, same capacity, same age).

• For parallel banks, use best-practice wiring so the load shares evenly (opposite-corner takeoff).

• For series banks, confirm every connection is tight and correct polarity.

What not to do

• Don’t try to “balance” by leaving the whole bank on a charger if one battery is far behind. That usually does not fix an imbalance.

• Don’t mix different models or capacities in the same bank. That creates imbalance problems over and over.

• Don’t assume a battery is bad because it trips first. Imbalance and wiring issues cause most early shutoffs.

If you would like additional support directly from a customer support technician, please open a ticket at the link below:
https://dakotalithium.com/sales-technical-support/how-to-contact/

Wiring batteries in parallel increases capacity (amp-hours and runtime) while keeping the voltage the same. You do it by connecting positive to positive and negative to negative, then pulling your main power from the combined outputs.

Parallel wiring basics

• Voltage stays the same (two 12V batteries in parallel = 12V)

• Capacity adds up (two 12V 100Ah in parallel = 12V 200Ah)

How to wire it (step-by-step)

For two 12V batteries in parallel:

1. Turn everything off, disconnect charger and loads.

2. Connect Battery 1 positive (+) to Battery 2 positive (+) with a jumper cable.

3. Connect Battery 1 negative (-) to Battery 2 negative (-) with a jumper cable.

4. Connect your system’s main positive and main negative to the bank.

Best practice for even draw:

• Pull main positive from Battery 1 (+) and main negative from Battery 2 (-) (opposite corners). This helps both batteries share the load and charge more evenly.

Rules you need to follow

• Use matching batteries only (same model, same capacity, same age). Don’t mix sizes or brands.

• Start them balanced. Fully charge each battery before paralleling them.

• Fuse each battery if possible. A fuse near each battery positive protects the system if a cable shorts.

• Use proper cable size. Parallel banks can support high current, but undersized cables cause heat and voltage drop.

Quick check

After wiring, check voltage at the main leads with a multimeter:

• It should read the same voltage as a single battery of that type (example: around 13V+ on a charged 12V LiFePO4 battery).

If you would like additional support directly from a customer support technician, please open a ticket at the link below:
https://dakotalithium.com/sales-technical-support/how-to-contact/

Wiring batteries in series increases voltage while keeping amp-hours (Ah) the same. You do it by connecting positive to negative between batteries, then using the remaining open terminals as your main output.

Series wiring basics

• Voltage adds up (12V + 12V = 24V, 12V + 12V + 12V = 36V, etc.)

• Capacity (Ah) stays the same (two 12V 100Ah in series = 24V 100Ah)

How to wire it (step-by-step)

For two 12V batteries to make 24V:

1. Turn everything off and disconnect the charger and loads.

2. Connect Battery 1 positive (+) to your system’s main positive.

3. Connect Battery 1 negative (-) to Battery 2 positive (+) using a series jumper cable.

4. Connect Battery 2 negative (-) to your system’s main negative.

5. You now have 24V across the main positive and main negative.

For three 12V batteries to make 36V:

• Keep linking negative to positive from battery to battery in a chain, and use the first battery’s positive and the last battery’s negative as your main outputs.

Rules you need to follow

• Use matching batteries (same model, same capacity, same age). Don’t mix and match.

• Fully charge each battery before wiring so they start balanced.

• Use proper cable size for your current draw, especially on trolling motors and inverters. Undersized cables cause heat, voltage drop, and problems.

• Use a series-capable charger (example: for a 24V series bank, use a 24V lithium charger). Don’t charge a series bank with a 12V charger unless you charge each battery individually.

Quick check

After wiring, measure voltage across the main positive and main negative:

• ~25–28V for a charged 24V LiFePO4 setup

• ~38–42V for a charged 36V LiFePO4 setup

If you would like additional support directly from a customer support technician, please open a ticket at the link below:
https://dakotalithium.com/sales-technical-support/how-to-contact/

Treat your lithium battery like a long-term tool, not a disposable part. Keep it in the right temperature range, charge it correctly, and avoid the habits that stress the cells.

Best practices that actually matter

• Use the right charger. Match voltage and lithium charging profile to your battery. A mismatched charger is one of the fastest ways to create issues.

• Don’t charge below freezing. Most LiFePO4 batteries should not be charged below 32°F (0°C) unless the battery has internal heating.

• Avoid “deep draining” every trip. You don’t need to run it to 0%. Shallower discharge cycles generally support longer life.

• Store it partially charged. For storage longer than a few weeks, aim for about 50–80% state of charge, not full and not empty.

• Keep it cool and dry in storage. Heat accelerates wear. Avoid leaving it in a hot vehicle or unventilated compartment for long periods.

• Use correct wiring for your setup. Series and parallel wiring mistakes can stress cells and trip the BMS.

• Secure the battery and connections. Loose terminals, corrosion, or vibration-related connection issues create heat and voltage drop, which hurts performance over time.

Quick reality check

Lithium batteries don’t need constant “babying.” If you follow the rules above and use the right charger, you’re already doing 90% of what extends lifespan.

A Battery Management System (BMS) is the built-in “brain” inside a lithium battery. It monitors the battery’s cells and protects them so the battery stays safe, reliable, and lasts as long as possible.

What the BMS does

• Prevents overcharging by stopping charge when the battery is full

• Prevents over-discharging by shutting the battery off before cells drop too low

• Protects against short circuits and overloads to prevent damage and overheating

• Balances the cells so each cell stays even, which helps performance and lifespan

• Monitors temperature and can block charging or discharging if temps are outside safe limits (common in freezing conditions)

What you might notice in real life

If the battery ever “cuts off,” won’t charge, or suddenly reads low, the BMS may be doing its job to protect the cells. That doesn’t automatically mean the battery is bad. It usually means something in the setup, load, charger, or temperature tripped a protection.

Start simple and prove what’s failing: the battery, the charger, the wiring, or the load. Most “battery problems” end up being a charger mismatch, a bad connection, or the BMS doing its job.

Step-by-step troubleshooting

1) Identify the symptom

Pick the closest match:

• Battery won’t charge

• Battery charges but runtime is low

• Battery shuts off under load

• Battery voltage looks wrong

• Battery won’t power anything

2) Do a fast visual and connection check

• Tighten terminals, check for corrosion, heat marks, loose lugs, damaged cables, and blown fuses.

• Confirm polarity and wiring (series vs parallel) matches your system voltage.

3) Check battery voltage with a multimeter

Do not rely on a gauge alone.

• Measure at the battery terminals.

• If you’re running multiple batteries, measure each battery individually, not just the full bank.

4) Verify the charger is correct

• Correct voltage for the system (12V, 24V, 36V, 48V).

• Lithium / LiFePO4 charging profile, or proper charge settings.

• Charger output current makes sense for the battery size.

If the charger says “full” immediately, never starts, or flashes an error, you likely have a charger setting, temperature, or BMS protection issue.

5) Check temperature and BMS protection

• Most LiFePO4 batteries should not be charged below 32°F (0°C) unless they have internal heating.

• If the battery suddenly shuts off, the BMS may have tripped from:

  • Low voltage protection (over-discharge)

  • Over-current (load too high)

  • Short circuit

  • High or low temperature

6) Rule out the load (trolling motor, inverter, starter, etc.)

• Disconnect the load and test the battery on something known to work, like a simple 12V accessory.

• High draw devices (inverters, big trolling motors, winches) expose weak wiring and undersized cables fast.

7) If you’re using a battery bank, check for imbalance

If one battery is low and the others aren’t, that’s a balance issue.

• Charge each battery individually to full.

• Rebuild the bank with matching batteries only.

Common fixes that solve most cases

• Clean and re-tighten all connections.

• Confirm charger voltage and lithium settings.

• Replace undersized cables causing voltage drop.

• Warm the battery above freezing before charging.

• Individually charge batteries before wiring in series.

If you would like additional support directly from a customer support technician, please open a ticket at the link below:
https://dakotalithium.com/sales-technical-support/how-to-contact/

When your battery arrives, it may not be at 100%. That’s normal. The best move is to check connections, confirm you have the right charger, then fully charge it before your first serious use.

What to expect when it first arrives

• State of charge varies. Shipping and storage mean it can arrive partially charged.

• The battery may “wake up.” Some models ship in a low-power or protected state. Once you connect a charger or a load, the BMS can wake up and everything reads normal.

• Voltage can look “high” compared to lead-acid. Lithium holds voltage longer and behaves differently than lead-acid, so gauges may not read the way you’re used to.

How to charge it the right way

1) Use the correct charger

• Match the charger voltage to your battery or bank (12V, 24V, 36V, 48V).

• Use a charger designed for LiFePO4 or a charger with the proper lithium settings.

2) Plug-in order

1. Connect charger clamps/ring terminals securely to the battery terminals.

2. Plug the charger into the wall power.

3. Let it run until the charger indicates full.

3) Charging time expectations

Charging time depends on battery size and charger amps. Rough rule:

• Charge time (hours) ≈ Battery Ah ÷ Charger amps
  Example: 100Ah battery with a 10A charger takes roughly 10 hours from empty to full. Real-world time varies based on how discharged it is and the charger’s stages.

4) Cold weather rule

Most LiFePO4 batteries should not be charged below 32°F (0°C) unless the battery has internal heating. If it’s cold, warm the battery first or use a heated model.

What “normal” looks like during charging

• The charger may spend most of its time in bulk charge, then slow down near the top.

• A battery monitor may jump around early on, that’s normal until it stabilizes.

• The battery should stay cool to slightly warm, it should not get hot.

Before your first trip

• Fully charge it once.

• Confirm your wiring is correct (especially series setups).

• If you’re building a bank, start with matching batteries and charge each one fully before wiring together.

If you would like additional support directly from a customer support technician, please open a ticket at the link below:
https://dakotalithium.com/sales-technical-support/how-to-contact/